We usually ship our engines with break-in oil which does not have to be changed for 400 miles. Very likely the oil will still look clean. We use Joe Gibbs Driven BR-30 for break-in and GP1 10-30 semi synthetic after the first oil change. Recommended oil change intervals are one year with this oil. Contains Zinc, Phosphorus, and Sulfur in addition to the highest quality base oils to protect your engine. The engine is completely broken in.  

Attach the transmission and clutch release bearing before installing the engine. If you have the new lightweight starter, DO NOT use the factory shoulder bolt. Use a typical 8 mm x 1.0 starter bolt (same as the two outer bolts). Pull the starter towards you to move the starter away from the ring gear then cinch up the bolts and nuts. Properly torqued the three fasteners will hold the starter in place without the need for the shoulder centering bolt. This allows using the much improved starter that will match the 130 or 131 tooth ring gears. Your engine may have the improved pump cold-start jumper wire that is attached to the 13 mm lower starter post. Plug this wire onto the (rear) cold start solenoid. This upgrade bypasses the ignition switch and eliminates the mysterious starter run-on problem. Hook up the black covered wire from the micro switch to the fuel cutoff solenoid.          

Install the engine; hook up all hoses, fuel lines and electrical wires and fill with antifreeze. 

  1. Remove the spark plugs.  Hook them up to the plug wires and lay them on top of the cylinder head. With the spark plugs removed do not let anything fall into the cylinders.
  2. Hook up a battery charger and turn the key to the first notch. The low pressure fuel light may stay on for a few seconds until fuel reaches the injection pump. Turn the key off then back on and the light should go out in less than a second. If the warning light is slow to go out or stays on STOP. You must find and fix the problem before proceeding. Go to page 33-34 of our Spica Manual. If in doubt, change the rear filter again and the pressure sender on the front fuel filter housing.  
  3. Modern ethanol fuels, even from 12 months of storage, can gum up and turn into varnish. Many owners replace the gas tanks since few radiator shops are willing to clean and service the tanks. They recommend soaking the tank with acetone and rinsing/draining then soaking and rinsing with lacquer thinner. It is best to remove the tank. Plan on replacing the fuel pump and rear filter as well. A second filter (Napa # 3299) may be needed since even a small amount of sediment can plug a new filter. The front filters do not see much sediment so they may not need to be replaced. It is a good idea to keep a new rear filter in the trunk. If the low pressure fuel light comes on when on the road; you may not make it back to your garage and finding the correct filter can be difficult.      
  4. There’s no need to test fuel pressure with a gauge, the warning light tells you all you need to know about supply fuel delivery and pressure. IF THE LIGHT DOESN’T WORK IT MUST BE FIXED. 
  5. Crank the engine (hold the throttle to the floor) for about 6 seconds and look for a blue spark at the spark plugs. Repeat in 6 second increments until you see oil pressure on the oil gauge. This procedure also primes the engine with fuel. Don’t over do it as the engine will likely flood.
  6. Install the spark plugs and start the engine.  

The ignition, injection pump and cam timing have been preset and dyno tested for optimum performance for 92 octane gas. It is not necessary to check or adjust the valve clearances on these engines.  

When the engine cools, re torque the head nuts to 60 ft/lbs. Re torque at 500 and 1000 miles.

Engine Restoration Specialists